Parts list - brakes

My assignment is on brakes, hydraulic

my areas includes these components:

• 2 front callipers
• 2 front rotors
• 2 front brake pads
• wheel barrings, and wheel barring seals
• rear brake shoes
• wheel cylinders
• master brake cylinder
• brake booster

     condition-

overall the brake components are in pretty good condition for the age of the car. all the parts just have surface rust and do not have much internal or excessive rust that would cause a issue. basically any hydraulic parts or parts with moving components within the system will need to be replaced.

     work to be done-

so because most parts are generally in good condition we will clean lots of parts by either varsole or sand blasting.  these parts include:

• callipers
• wheel barrings, and wheel barring seals
• brake shoes (lots of thickness, might replace due to age)

brake rotors will be machined. so they are in great condition and new brake rotors are very pricey, so we will machine them to create and new fresh layer for the brake pads to make contact with, instead of replacing

     what will be replaced-

• brake lines (every brake line will be replaced or we will make our own in the shop)
• brake pads (have lots of thickness and good condition, but will most likely replace due to age)
• wheel cylinders
• master brake cylinder
• brake booster

     prices of parts

• pads - $81 * 2 
• wheel cylinders - $118 * 2
• master brake cylinders - $458
• brake booster (will be rebuilt by a company of some sort) a new booster is $525
• brake lines - ? (could vary, due to what we actually replace, brake lines are fairly inexpensive)

Parts List- Engine

Overview:

For the engine we are going for a full rebuild, replacing what parts were damaged with parts that can be used on street vehicles with some added performance. The engine went to the machine shop to be deep cleaned, re-machined, painted and partially re-built. After the machine shop had a good look at the condition of the various engines parts they came back to us and said we needed to replace the camshaft and lifters due to excessive wear. Along with the bearings, gaskets, and seals. For the cylinder head a full valve seat repair was needed and had to be re-machined. Another performance option, head porting, was a good option to increase power by increasing air flow thus decreasing resistance and increasing the overall horsepower.

Work Required:

The engine and all components need a thorough cleaning followed by a rebuild. All components need to be reinstalled in and on the engine block starting with the camshaft and bearings followed by the camshaft and lifters, timing gear, oil sump and various other small components with all the appropriate gaskets. The cylinder head needs to have the ports machined along with the valve seat. The head needs to be rebuilt then reinstalled on the engine with a head gasket. For the cylinder block the cylinders are only being re-buffed and not re-bored due to the fact the cylinders were in good shape along with the pistons. The engine needs a new clutch, starter, alternator,  and carburetors. Exhaust parts will need to be purchased at a later date.

Parts Needed: All Prices are in USD

-Clutch...............................................$275.00

-Starter/Start Solenoid.......................$56.50 CAD
-Generator/Alternator........................$56.50 CAD
-Camshaft..........................................$275.00
-Carburetors......................................$895.00
-Main Bearing...................................$85-$100
-Rod Bearing.....................................$65.00
-Camshaft Bearings...........................$55.00
-Dual Springs.................................... $125.00
-Spring Retainers...............................$79.50 -set of 8
-Valve Lifters.....................................$74.00 -set of 8
-Gasket Set
    -Manifold........................................$15.50
    -Bottom End...................................$72.50
    -Front and Rear Crank Seals
           Rear.........................................$12.50
           Front........................................$8.50
-Oil pump...........................................$160.00
-Water Pump......................................$45.00

Parts List- Electrical work

Intro
The electrical pieces are in goof shape other than the fact that there is just and grime covering everything. When it comes to replacing the electrical equipment everything needs to be cleaned and tested first before we determine what needs top be replaced. When the wiring harness was pulled out we found it in ok condition, some wires where frayed but it maybe saveable. Another thing that needs to be tested are switches and relays.

Removed wiring harness.

The electrical system is comprised of
-DC generator
-Battery
-Spark plugs
-distributor
-ignition coil
-Wiring harness
-starter

Relay

Price list in CAD
-Relay 32.70
-Wiring harness 167
-Car battery 80
-Starter moter 136
- Spark plugs 4.85 per plug

Exterior Parts Research

1968 Volvo P1800 ~ Exterior Parts 🚗

Description:
  I am doing research for the exterior parts of the "1968 Volvo P1800". The reason I am finding the information of exterior parts of this car is because I am a member of the project of restoration of this car. Also, I am always struggle of the steps of the restoration works, so doing some research may help me to improve my skills and knowledge to finish my work in the future.😁😎

  Maybe some people will think the exterior parts is not that important for a vehicle, but in my opinion, the exterior parts is the parts that giving people of the good impression. So, I am quite paying attention in this area.🙌

Exterior Parts:

• Auto Body Styling & Accessories
• Bumpers &Components
• Car Covers
• Convertible Tops, Soft Tops & Components
• Decals & Graphics
• Door Handles, Locks & Accessories
• Emblems
• Fender Flares, Vents & Accessories
• Fog Lights, Driving Lights, Components & Accessories
• Gas Caps, Fuel Doors & Components
• Grille Guards & Bull Bars
• Grilles & Components
• Hitches, Winches & Trailers
• Hoods & Components
• Lighting Accessories & Components
• Nerf Bars, Running Boards & Steps
• Other Auto Body Accessories
• Outdoor & Camping Gear
• Rocker Panels & Cargo Carriers
• Spare Tire Accessories
• Tool Boxes & Accessories
• Truck Bed & Tailgate Accessories
• Window Visors
• Windshield, Wipers, Washers, Accessories & Components

Exterior Tools:

• Car Door Upholstery Trim Clip Removal Pliers Tool Combo Dash Panel Moulding Trig (Fits: 1969 Volvo 1800)
• Racing Honeycomb Hex Mesh Grill Spoiler Bumper Vent(Fits: 1969 Volvo 1800)
• Adjustable Foam Lance Cannon Gun Goamer Karcher Pressure Snow Washer Adapter Car (Fits: 1969 Volvo 1800)(Fits: 1969 Volvo 1800)

Other non-related Exterior parts:

• Long Arm Cell Phone Holder (Universal 2 Size Car SUV Long Arm Cell Phone Holder Fit Mobile Phone And Tablet (Fits: 1969 Volvo 1800))
• Car Dashboard Holder Stand Clip (Universal 1Pcs Adjustable Car Dashboard Holder Stand Clip For All Cell Phone GPS (Fits: 1969 Volvo 1800))
• Car Charger (Dual USB 3.1A Display Voltage Car Charger 2 Port Adapter For Smart Phone Samsung (Fits: 1969 Volvo 1800))
• Color Tube camera (2M 6LED waterproof Endoscope Borescope color Tube camera for Android Smart phone (Fits: 1969 Volvo 1800))

Special and Smart Idea of the Window Crank Removal:

Wrong way to remove: 

• By using a hook to remove the clip under the washer.
• Assumed it might be the later style crank and did what the manual said and pushed the washer into the panel then towards the crank handle to dis-engauge the clip.

(nothing was there to hook onto.)

Correct way to remove:

• Push both of these at the same time and then it will then pop out.

Special and Smart Idea of the Window Removal:

Wrong way to remove: 

• Using force to pull it off.

(It won't come off.)

Correct way to remove:

• Turn the window 180 degree and you may easily get it off.

Works need to be done in the Future:

  In the future, there is another door needs to be removed. It should be much more easier to remove because we had already gain the experience of remove the first door.

  Hope everything will be go well in the project and I can learn more during attending the practical work.😏

Parts list - Body work

Intro:
The Body of the car is in good shape considering the age. There are places that will need replacing due to surface rust and holes. We will need to replace some of the panels due to the rust and holes. Some area's include the driver side floor panel, Front cross member, Battery box, etc. There are also some dents that will need to be banged out. We will need to finish scraping off the Stone chip coating on the underside of the car.

Work to be done: We need to continue to scrape off the Rock chip coating. Then we will need to sand blast the car to get it cleaned up. Then we will need to buy A driver side floor plan because the one in place right now has holes and surface rust. We also need to buy a new front and mid cross member because of big rust damage and holes. We will need to fix the back passenger side wheel well because of a huge hole. The battery box will need to be replaced as well. We will also need to prime and paint the car. We will also need the rocker panel on the driver side.

The Cost:
Driver side floor panel: $125
Front cross member: $35
Mid cross member: $38
Battery Box: $65
Rocker Panel: $50
            Total: $313 American or $420 Canadian

Parts List - Suspension

Suspension System

Intro
Im in charge of the suspension system. It consists of:

• Front
• Shock Absorbers
• Springs
• Control Arms
• Steering Knuckle and Spindle
• Sway bar link 
• Sway bar
• Front Crossmember 
• Ball Joint
• Rear
• Strut bars
• Pan hard
• Shock Absorbers
• Springs
• Rear Axle (used to attach rear suspension components)

The Suspension system is in fairly good shape, once we got it all taken apart and removed all of the parts from the car we noticed it was all in really good shape. Some of the parts have a rubbery coating to protect from stone chipping, which we will have to remove before sand blasting them. A lot of the main parts only have surface rust with minimal metal loss.

Work that needs to be done
We need to continue to disassemble the rest of the smaller components. Then we need to clean up and sandblast every part that we aren't going to be replacing. We also need to remove the bushings from the control arms and strut arms before sandblasting them. We will then repaint all the parts and re-assemble them, like putting new bushings and ball joints in. Then rebuild both the front and rear assemblies and re-instal them on the body of the car.

Parts that need to be replaced

• All 4 Shock absorbers - $615 USD (set of 4)
• All 4 Springs - $315 USD (set of 4)
• All Bushings - $295 USD (full set)
• All Ball joints - $90 USD (upper and lower)
• Sway Bar Links - $50 USD (Right and left)

We need to replace some parts in the clutch like the clutch disk the pressure plate and the throwout bearing.We are getting the flywheel missed at a shop.the differential shafts just need to be cleaned up and the bears are going to be replace.The transmission just need to have the oil jrand and put new oil in.the Drive shaft we are going to sandblast and put in new U joints.Wheels we need to get new wheels and clean up the rims

Clutch disc

Pressure plate

Throwout bearing

Clutch kit is $231.78

Differential

Shafts

Bears 26.79

Seal 10.67

Transmissions

Drain oil  $22.75

Mount $11.22

Driveshaft

U joints 20.07

Wheels

New wheels $ 268.64

Clean up rims

Underbody Coating Removal

Once we had the car mounted on the rotisserie we were able to flip the car and get a good look with what we were dealing with. The underbody was covered in a stone chip plastic/rubber like coating. This protected the underlying metal over all the years and seemed to do an exceptional job. The metal underneath was in great condition with the exception of a few small spots that we already knew or had a good idea that would need repair. The coating is a real challenge to remove. All the power tools we tried never seemed to really work and we resulted in using just our hands, some chisels, and occasionally a hammer. It is a time consuming task and one that is not easy on the hands from all the hammering and chiseling. However it is something that must be done now to avoid the hassle later on when the entire body is being media blasted. The coating does not come off very well when you try to remove it with the media due to the fact that it is so thick. With a few bodies the job does not take that long as long as you are focused and just get it done. Once the coating is removed the car is just about ready for blasting followed by the body repair work!